Bites Nearby: Head to Sola BYOB ASAP

The black awning and unassuming storefront are easily missed when driving down Lancaster Avenue. But what awaits behind those doors is hardly worth missing. This week I was fortunate enough to dine at  restaurant in Bryn Mawr and was quite impressed with the wonderful food. The restaurant is not only BYOB, but wine drinking is encouraged as the tables are pre-set with red and white wine glasses. 

The menu offered a la carte appetizers ($10-$18), entrees ($26-$34) and desserts ($8) and a four course prix fixe option ($40).

Before any of our menu choices arrived, we received a basket of warm rolls and a small ramekin of soft butter sprinkled with smoked sea salt. We were then presented with an amuse bouche from the kitchen. This little gift from the chef consisted of a slice of smoked duck breast and caramelized Asian pear. It was a pleasing little bite to start our meal.

My four-course prix fixe began with a sweet onion and mushroom crepe and watercress and radish salad. The delicious crepe arrived piping hot, and the peppery greens and delicate strips of radish provided a nice cooling contrast. My companion had the peeky toe crab tamal with tempura rock shrimp ($12), which he thoroughly enjoyed.

The next course was red wine braised escargot with pancetta and rosti potatoes. The snails were tender and sumptuous. The pancetta added a subtle smokiness to the dish that matched well with the earthiness of the snails. Rosti potatoes are a Swiss preparation that I liken to a really fancy hash brown. They are delicious at breakfast, lunch and dinner, and these were no different.

What came next was a pan-roasted, locally-sourced quail over a creamy white polenta with a ladleful of rich quail sauce. The meat was tender, the polenta creamy and the sauce deeply satisfying. My companion had seared foie gras with a duck prosciutto-wrapped medjool date, apple salad, apple butter and port reduction ($18). Seared foie gras is like the opera or olives--you love it or hate it. There is no middle ground. This particular preparation had all the elements of a classic seared foie-gras dish including both sweet (date and apple butter) and tart (port reduction) components, which balanced the fatty richness of the liver quite well.

We ended our meal on a sweet note (as opposed to a savory note with a cheese course ($12)). The roasted banana creme brulee was fantastic and full of flavor. The warm arborio rice pudding with macerated cherries and plumped golden raisins was an ideal dessert for a cold, foggy night. I've only ever had rice pudding served cold, but this warm incarnation was delicious and strangely comforting.

The restaurant is BYOB with a $2 corkage fee. If you want to forego wine, the restaurant offers sodas and bottled waters (still and sparkling). The Saratoga sparkling water ($6) is an excellent choice.

The dining room is intimate and dimly lit with overhanging elongated red lamps and individual tea lights on the tables. The walls are both textured and mustard colored. The carpet absorbs much of the sound of diners' conversations so it never gets loud. There are vintage-y looking paintings and numerous wine-related decorations and furniture. Be sure to take a peek at the wine hall of fame that is shelved right by the hostess stand. Not surprisingly, most of the bottles are Old World superstars like Margaux, Pomerol and Mouton-Rothschild, but some California bottles did manage to sneak in.

Not long ago,  you would have to get into your car, drive into the city and spend a small fortune on parking, food and wine to have a great dinner out. Sola is local, provides great food at a reasonable price, and you can bring your favorite bottle of wine to boot. Enjoy two high quality meals at Sola for what it would have cost you to dine out once in the city. Or you can use the money you save to hire a sitter--Sola is great for a grown-up night out. 

Editor's Note: This story has been revised. An earlier version stated incorrectly some details of the meal: The butter was sprinkled with smoked sea salt, not sesame seeds. The quail was prepared with pancetta, not lardons. And the quail was served with a creamy white polenta, not with pommes puree.